Our friends over at Kilter set us a challenge, a very pinchy challenge! The Kilterboard is known for having some amazing grips and some great pinches. However most grip strength training methods these days use a hangboard and train crimp grips. But what about pinch strength? We ran a little experiment with our climbing coaches to see how closely pinch strength actually relates to board climbing. It turns out quite a lot!
Have you ever wondered how transferable Your grip strength is to climbing grade Well today we’re running a bit of an Experiment and we’ve got kyoto involved To have set us a bit of a challenge hey Ladies this is jackie from kilter and we Sent you guys pinch challenge so we sent You a bunch of pinch boulders from Moderate to quite hard and the challenge Is for you guys to do as many as Possible so check out some of the cool Pinches on the kilter board and let’s See what you got Come on Come on nice we’re going to start off by Measuring our grip strength using the New quad block and then kilter i’ve set Us a bunch of benchmark pinch problems To see how that translates to the grade On the board oh my god come on no i Can’t come on ross get off the ground Come on this is this is your chance to Beat a world cup semi-finalist So today we are going to test The big wide fat pinch this deep one Here and then on the other side the Shallow one and that’s because these two Pinches are pretty common on the kilter Board there’s some pretty big pinches on It however it’d be a pretty crap test if It was just me so i’ve got some pretty Strong coaches with me today i’ve got Jen johnny and roz and what we’re going To do is we’re going to see who’s got
The strongest grip on these different Positions and then we’re going to go to The kilter board and test out those Problems i think jen’s the dark horse in This because roz and johnny are pretty Good at crimping this competition is Actually just like so chilled out Compared to what she’s normally doing I’ve got some friction lab chalk today To really like put everything in my Favor so i can keep up we’ll go Strongest hand yes Um Why do you have a really big discrepancy Huge really enormous probably like five Kilos wow i think i’ve found my max You made it look so easy when you picked Up it was like it was air if you can do Bicep curls it’s too light Come on Come on I can’t You maxed out yeah that was a quick film For you you can go home though [Music] Come on come on Come on Nice that’s seven seconds yeah So light is it Yeah just laughing this is good because I was moonboarding across the other end She was telling me how easy the moves Were so just start start rinsing rods About how it’ll light all of this weight
That’s right Go you’re not even struggling Where you are Good come on keep it there nice come on Come on Come on Nice oh my god oh easy Come on Yes Oh my god my jaw’s hurting now i’m good Come on come on big effort Yeah let’s go on oh my god Oh My god Well i didn’t lose josh i didn’t lose But look how happy you are i think i Don’t know it’s going to go relative and Then It’s going to the leaderboard’s going to Change quadrant easy It’s gone johnny come on I think the key is to engage as many Muscles in your body as possible Including the jaw that’s where a lot of The pinch stroke comes from yep Get the gun on Come on Bite your chin [Applause] Come on come on Come on josh come on come on josh keep Going come on come on all the way ah That was good well you see it sliding Come on oh no right i’m just a bit cold
I just need to beat josh What did i do did i do this one twenty People Yeah yeah just if i did that At a point five points yeah just Something Cause you look like you’re on a bit more And i I thought he oh wow i’ve got three max To be fair but i will definitely have a Go at this one Come on good come on Come on keep it there come on jen come On Come on really good Come on nice See anymore Is that max We’re at max no no no probably don’t Write it off yet probably Is it my game come on come on everyone Someone speak jen What’s the title general yeah of jen Then Yeah come on come on come on come on Come on keep going go go go drop It that was like falling on seven Come on come on really good Keep there come on keep going come on Johnny come on really good keep going Go chill Yeah cheers This is your chance to be a world cup Semi-final i’m not sure i can watch it
Semi-finalist girl I’ll put that in a plaque Beat jen Now i’m really nervous [Music] Yes come on come on Oh four seconds not it’s not even close Is it but i got it off the ground yeah You did beat me Right it’s gotta take this quickly In case it’s important hello Hi hi press release Did you you got the news already like Ukc Yeah they’re asking if i can write a Blog page about how i beat jen come on No no we’re leaving it at 30 i think God Easy Yeah easy josh come on that’s it Come on Nice It’s the oh going for the side Come on come on come on come on come on Does that count it was that i feel like Six seconds oh that’s so nice I bought harry bae for this exact reason I can’t do it now [Music] Come on jen Yes yes josh come on come on Come on come on come on stay with us Stay with us I thought it was going for like the last
Four seconds i think you win the The try I think I think i popped a blood vessel in my Eye then Come on oh yeah that feels right come on Johnny The scores are in and despite me being Quite chuffed with uh how i was lifting The quad block it’s not looking so good For me anymore so on the deep pinch the Leaderboard is johnny with 46 Gen with 41.5 Ros for 34 and then me at the bottom With 34 But she pips me by about like 0.04 or Something like that On the shallow pinch it’s clear that roz Is much better at this style because she Came first with 31 Johnny with 30 Gen with 28.8 And then me at the bottom again we have 24.3 and this is relative to body weight Remember if you want a personalized Report on your own strength using the Quad block or the pinch block you can Head over to my pinch and submit your Strength scores there now to the next Part we’re on the kilter board and we’re Going to be ramping up the difficulty Bumping through the grades on these Pinch problems set to us by kilter [Music]
[Music] The pictures on this board are well good Aren’t they i like are they You just don’t get wide pinches like That on other boards do you [Music] Come on come on josh come on come on Come on come on Why i catch everything in a dragon again Come on johnny Bit of a floater in a bit of a floater Yeah Come on Come on This is not my experience of the kilter Board i thought it was softer than this As soon as like i’ve always said i’m bad At pinches the sooners will like give us Straight up pitch problems it feels Nails to me It feel hard compared to your crimp Problems For me yeah i am looking at you the Master crimper yeah That’s it come on Yeah there you go Effort Nice josh come on Come on jack go up yeah really good Nice come on that’s it I’m just falling out thank you I’m tired from max testing it’s like Yeah Nice
[Music] Come on [Music] Nice [Music] Oh that right hand is your skin Yeah it’s really bad Nice come on Come on jim nice john Come on come on skid Oh yeah [Music] I don’t think we’ve got any harder since The start no i feel like the first one Was the hardest one So the next problem we’re going to is a V8 after watching the testing on the Quad block is it playing out as you Thought it would we’re going to provide The whole list of these boulder problems In the description below so if you have A kilter board let us know how far you Get through the kilter challenge if You’re enjoying this video so far please Don’t forget to like and subscribe Nice Full crimp That’s that’s like using the pinch Strength on the Really narrow pinch Yeah nice ones Nice You see that full crimping [Music]
So [Music] Uh [Music] [Laughter] Nearly fallen off so much in my life I even came off the pitcher a second and Went back in so multiples of V12 yeah yeah I’m waiting for v12 that’s my next That’s my next peak it’s a 50 yeah 50 Looks so much sicker than 40 i know it Is but like Surely that’s it Okay [Music] Starfish are pretty good climbers [Music] Oh my god i reckon it’ll go Nice Come on johnny go on Yeah [Music] Nice [Music] Oh that one does not look as juggy as Kind of like the middle is Yeah because it’s like pointy the sides Taper away quite a bit Yeah right come on Oh my god this looks so weird what are You doing with your legs When did you get that flexible well I’m not too bad
I’m not done with my go yet I’ve not even had a go yet it’s clear That they’re just like josh is tapped Out now Know your place no no it’s fine have Your third game I’ll go later Yeah there you go Oh that looked good no that freys me out No Come on ross come on it’s good yeah yeah Yeah yes come on It’s like yeah Nice It’s quite a fun little sequence through That little bit Come on skid God that’s miles Kiltra are starting to win on this one Hey i’ve done it Johnny’s done it We still got a lot of horses in the race Come on Come on Come on Oh wait you’re dropping ladies Looking for the next crimp keys here We’ve gotta do a little bit of a crab Shuffle i mean that’ll be cool [Music] [Music] Come on nice [Music] Oh that holds bad
What’s your eight cent johnny i was Thinking about the same height i’m like Plus a centimeter and you must be five Seven 172 you’re just slightly yeah i Guess we are pretty much the same [Music] Whoa Look at josh and his extra foothold Bloody out If you’ve got the length you’ve got to Use it right yeah otherwise i’m just Heavy For sure Go on johnny come on Yeah nice Go on Kevin that’s it That looks good beer actually so the end Of that climbing challenge it’s quite Obvious that pinch strength is really Important at least for these certain Problems and any style which requires Pinching johnny scored the highest in Our pinch testing and also climbed the Hardest boulder on this board i on the Other hand scored the lowest and Struggled really a lot with just holding The basic pinch strength on a lot of These problems obviously lots of other Things go into climbing performance but Strength is a big factor in there if you Tried any of the climbs in this Challenge let us know how you got on in The comments below if you enjoyed this
Content and want to see more stuff like This please don’t forget to like and Subscribe and we’ll see you next time [Music] You
