How to Get Your Jam On: Basic Hand Jams for Crack Climbing

So, you’re a gym rat and you’re all about those face-climbing techniques. You’ve probably seen those weird, painful-looking artificial cracks in the gym, but you’ve never really given them a chance. We get it, coated concrete is slippery and difficult to learn on, but if you want to take your climbing to the next level, you need to start jamming!

What is Jamming?

Basic hand jams are a key element of crack climbing. Not only do they help you develop the movement and rhythm of crack climbing, but they can also serve as useful cues when placing gear or resting.

Ideally, the crack should be wide enough for your hand to fit snugly sideways (thumb down, pinky up). If the crack becomes wider, you may need to cup your palm in order to maintain pressure on the hand.

Thumb Up or Thumb Down?

While there are different types of jams, thumb up or thumb down is the most common.

Thumbs-up jam

One of the most basic techniques in crack climbing is hand jams. These provide an opportunity to practice leverage and camming your hands while also teaching novice climbers about wedging.

When a crack is properly sized for your fingers, hands, or fists, it should feel comfortable and natural. But not every crack fits perfectly; the key to success lies in expansion and torque.

To do this, insert your fingers into the crack just a few inches from your wrist and flex. Doing this makes your large muscles slightly larger, filling in the crack and helping the jam to stick securely.

The thumb-jam technique can be performed either thumbs up or thumbs down; thumbs up generally works better in tight hand cracks as it allows you to reach higher. It may also be done with your thumb tucked across your palm for additional security when dealing with vertical cracks.

Thumbs-down jam

Cracks can be challenging and painful to jam in, but they also offer immense rewards. Once you master making good hand and foot jams, climbing many solid cracks becomes much less of a challenge without breaking a sweat.

One of the most basic hand jams is a thumbs-down jam. This orientation works best in vertical cracks.

To perform a thumbs-down jam, insert your hand into the crack and slot it down a few inches. Then engage your shoulder and lats to pull your elbow back down in line with your body, creating torque to keep you stuck in the crack.

This technique works especially well when the crack is slightly tighter than desired, allowing you to reach higher. It’s simpler than the thumbs-up move and ideal for placing gear or taking a break before continuing upward.

Similar to hand and fist jams, check for constrictions in the crack you are climbing. These could include face holds, pods or flares within the crack itself, as well as off-width features wide enough for more of your limbs to fit.

Thin Hands Jamming

When the crack is thinner than your entire hand, you might need to use a thin hands jam. This technique involves slotting your hand into the crack up to your knuckles and then squeezing with your fingers and knuckles. It takes more strength to hang on a thin hands jam compared to a perfect hand jam.

Cupped Hands Jamming

When the crack is wider than your entire hand, you’ll need to use a cupped hands jam. This technique involves slotting your hand into the crack and then squeezing with your entire hand, pushing your knuckles against one side and your palm and fingers against the other. It’s strenuous, but when done correctly, you’ll be able to hang on for a bit.

Thumb stack

Stuffing your fingers onto your thumb is a powerful technique used for crack climbing. To thumb stack, place the thumb first in the crack and then wrap the index and middle fingers over top.

Depending on the size of the crack, this is an effective technique to practice before trying larger ones. Start with a smaller finger, hand, or fist-sized cracks until you feel confident using this technique on larger ones.

Jamming on smaller cracks is much simpler and more natural than larger ones, so start here first. A thumbstack is when your index finger and possibly some of your pinkie are barely in.

A ring lock, on the other hand, involves getting part of your index and pinkie into the lock. It’s easier to accomplish than a thumbstack.

Wrap Up

Great job on learning the basics of hand jamming, not it’s time to start practicing! Tape up your hands and get to it! Who knows, you might just find yourself preferring crack climbing to face climbing. Happy climbing!