In today’s video we are covering a technique that actually sits as a foundation to many other techniques. This is ’Momentum’, or rather the use of momentum in climbing movements. Using momentum is foundational to movement but mastering its application, magnitude, timing and coordination will transform your potential as a climber. This is because it can be used for making really large movements beyond your typical reach and even make the smallest of movements more efficient, saving you energy and strength. In this video we discuss two training exercises to develop both explosive climbing momentum and subtle climbing momentum. We also discuss how momentum can be generated in many way including arm swings and pogo kicks.
This technique is a standout Characteristic of some of the best Climbs in the world this includes yanya Ganbre adamandra magnus mipbo and of Course our varying gen wood it is Fundamental to climbing movement and Today we’re talking about how you can Train it [Music] We are of course talking about momentum And we can define this between climbing As the speed or force generated by the Movement of our muscles which is going To carry us effortlessly to our next Destination or body position momentum is Often used in climbing to help move Large distances or move more efficiently Between body positions by using our Weight and our strength to support our Movement where is our momentum generated Generally we’re going to be thinking About generating momentum from our lower Body through our hips and our legs this Is important to save energy in your Upper body while your legs are going to Do a lot of the pushing your arms are Also going to help generate momentum in Many cases our arms will be pulling into The wall to help direct our trajectory Upwards where should we carry our Momentum from Generally let’s think about carrying Momentum from our hips this is because It’s close to our center of mass and
It’s going to help us move our mass Towards the next hold in slightly more Advanced situations we can also use Momentum at different body parts for Example we can use our arms To swing towards a hold we can also use Our legs to swing towards a hold in What’s called a pogo move or a ninja Kick however coordination and timing of Momentum is probably one of the most Crucial aspects to get right we can try And keep this simple and think about the Point at which our hands leave the hold And which our hand should be grabbing The next hole generally your hand is Going to release by the time it reaches Your shoulder at which pulling would Need to become pushing to extend any Further we should think about grabbing The holds at the apex of trajectory and By this i mean at the very point of Weightlessness when your upwards Movement stops and before you start to Come back down today we’re going to Categorize two major uses of momentum in Climbing The first one is explosive movement or Powerful movement this is typically used For dead points or dynamics and Generally this means moving large Distances between holes This is characterized by more subtle or Smaller flicks of the hip maybe swings Of the arm and generally we’re covering
Smaller distances which might be done Statically but trying to use momentum to Make this movement more efficient or Easier [Music] So the first session we might use to Practice our momentum is lower body Launch for this session we’re going to Pick eight warm-up climbs for every move Bend your legs and straighten your arms This way will maximize the momentum You’re then going to drive your hips Into the wall while straightening your Legs Then move both hands at once to the next Hole by sinking all the way down and Away from the wall it means as you drive Up your momentum is going into the wall And towards the next hole This gives you time to move both hands At once to advance on this session we’re Going to do double dinos this is a very Similar principle but we’re going to Choose moves large enough that you have To leave the footholds this means you’ll Need even more momentum aim to make four Different dinos and have up to five goes On each one so the next session is Eliminates so this combines your problem Solving skills with using momentum the First part of this session is choosing Four really easy boulders We’re then going to progressively Eliminate holds having about three reps
On each climb this will make it more and More dynamic for the second part of this Session we’re going to pick four Boulders just below flash level and Eliminate one key hold try and choose Holds to eliminate so that on some Climbs you might need to use subtle Momentum but on others it’ll be more Explosive it is important to remember That your ability to use momentum is Going to depend heavily on the Conditioning and strength of your lower Body so if you haven’t already checked It out please go check out our lower Body strength training fundamentals if You enjoyed this video please give us a Thumbs up don’t forget to subscribe and We’ll see you next time [Music] You
