The Best Rock Climbing Spots in Oregon
Oregon boasts some world-renowned rock climbing spots, such as Smith Rock State Park. But if you don’t want to drive too far, there are also several high-quality climbing crags within half an hour of Portland that offer challenges for climbers of all levels.
Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte Quarry, Carver Bridge Cliff, Madrone Wall, Ozone Wall, and Beacon Rock are all popular crags near Portland that offer an array of routes from traditional to sport.
| Rock Climbing Destination | Location | Best Season | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Smith Rock State Park | 26 miles northeast of Bend | Spring and Fall | 650-acre park, jaw-dropping rock formations, various species of wildlife, many hiking trails, and world’s finest sport climbs |
| Broughton Bluff | 15 minutes from downtown Portland | Late Summer and Fall | 13 principle “walls,” traditional routes, long multi-pitch lines, and steep limestone or sandstone walls |
| Carver Cliff | Near Portland | All year round | Stunning views, rock climbing and bouldering, various areas to explore, some of the more difficult problems, and suitable for beginner to intermediate climbers |
| Skinner Butte (aka The Columns) | Eugene | All year round | West-facing basalt wall, multiple cracks, over 50 routes, ideal for rock climbing beginners and experienced climbers, and many bolted anchors at the top |
Smith Rock State Park
Smith Rock State Park is a 650-acre oasis in the high desert that attracts mountain climbers, hikers, photographers and nature admirers. Situated around 26 miles northeast of Bend, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park should not be missed by outdoor adventurers.
Smith Rock State Park is famed for its jaw-dropping rock formations protruding from canyon walls, making it a popular tourist destination. Additionally, visitors can observe various species of wildlife like deer, geese, golden eagles and prairie falcons here.
Rock climbing at Smith Rock offers something for everyone – whether you’re new to the sport or an experienced climber. The Upper Gorge boasts several fantastic routes, while Lower Gorge features some stunning cliff faces in the park.
Smith Rock State Park is best enjoyed during the spring and fall when temperatures are dry and crowds are at their lowest levels. Be aware that peak summer months can be quite busy at Smith Rock!
Smith Rock offers many hiking trails that take you past gorges and rock cliffs. Hiking is one of the most rewarding activities at the park.
Some of the top hiking trails include River Trail (1.5 miles), Mesa Verde Trail, Summit Loop and Canyon Trail. These hikes provide spectacular views of Crooked River, cliffs and rock formations.
Summer temperatures can be brutal, so be prepared and wear light clothing. Additionally, it’s wise to bring water and sunscreen with you.
If you’re a beginner, Koala Rock is an ideal starting point while Christian Brothers offer more advanced climbers a challenge. Though these routes may appear intimidating at first glance, they have been well-maintained and safe to climb.
Smith Rock is home to an array of wildlife, such as deer, otters and beavers. To maintain the environment and minimize noise pollution while hiking at Smith Rock, please be mindful.
Smith Rock Park is renowned for its rock climbing routes and boasts some of the world’s finest sport climbs. Climbers from around the globe flock here to try their skills at these remarkable challenges.
Broughton Bluff
Rock climbing is one of the most beloved outdoor activities in America, and Oregon offers plenty of places to get started. From the Columbia River Gorge to the Wallowa Mountains, there are climbing spots throughout Oregon that cater to all abilities and interests.
Broughton Bluff is a beloved climbing destination for both locals and visitors who want to experience the exhilaration of rock climbing. Just 15 minutes away from downtown Portland, this area features 13 principle “walls,” most of which are on private property.
Broughton Bluff offers a diverse range of routes for climbers of all abilities at Broughton Bluff, from beginner-friendly climbs to long multi-pitch lines with steep limestone or sandstone walls that test even experienced climbers. Most routes are traditional routes while some require top rope access as well.
Broughton Bluff’s best rock climbing season is during late summer and fall. Temperatures here tend to be dry and sunny, making for ideal climbing conditions with fewer people around.
Broughton Bluff can get quite cold in the wintertime. To ensure you stay warm while rock climbing here, make sure you bring appropriate gear and clothing.
Climbers should bring a hat, waterproof jacket, raincoat or poncho. Additionally, they should don a pair of gloves and good footwear.
On steep routes, this will keep your hands warm and enable them to maintain their grip. If rock climbing is new to you, it’s best to practice on a softer surface before venturing out onto the cliffs.
Crags in and around Portland offer climbing challenges for all skill levels, such as Broughton Bluff and Rocky Butte Quarry. Other popular crags nearby include Carver Cliff, Viento Wall, and Smith Rock State Park. If you want to take your climbing to the next level, The Circuit Bouldering Gym in Bend is a great option. Run by passionate climbers with plenty of challenging terrain to choose from; equipment can be rented here too, plus there’s an on-site bar for post-climb refreshments!
Carver Cliff
If you’re searching for some of Oregon’s top rock climbing spots, Carver Cliff should not be missed. Not only does it boast stunning views of the city and numerous challenging routes perfect for novice climbers, but its natural geology also makes this cliff ideal.
Rock climbing and bouldering are both popular activities on this cliff. Routes range from 5.9 to 5.12 with many bolted climbs available.
Though not as famous as Smith Rock, the cliff is worth exploring. There are various areas to explore such as West Fortress and Front Gates.
West Fortress is a line of rocks hidden away from the main cliff area, featuring some great routes suitable for all levels of climbers. Most routes here are rated 5.10+ and above and can be intimidatingly difficult; however, the rewards are worth it!
There are also a couple of top-rope routes and bouldering areas on the cliff face that are suitable for beginner to intermediate climbers, helping build strength and endurance.
When it comes to challenges, the cliff offers some of the more difficult problems in Oregon. Since these puzzles tend to be cryptic, having an understanding of rock reading skills is essential for success.
Remember to wear gloves and long pants when exploring this area; if you feel uncertain about your ability, seek professional instruction before trying to scale the cliff.
Respect the Cliff and Landowner: The Carver Climbing Club owns and operates the cliff, so if you are not a member then signing a waiver and paying $8.00 is required before climbing on it. Doing this helps safeguard the cliff for all climbers by keeping it safe for everyone involved.
Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)
Oregon is known for its tall mountains, rain forests and foggy beaches – but it also has plenty to offer rock climbing enthusiasts. From traditional routes to top-rope routes, there’s something here for everyone from beginners to experts alike.
One of the best places for rock climbing in Eugene is Skinner Butte (aka The Columns). This area is popular with local climbers and easy to get to from downtown Eugene. Situated inside a former quarry, these columns are only minutes away from Elevation and The Crux climbing gyms, REI stores, as well as various downtown pubs and restaurants.
The Columns is a west-facing basalt wall 50 feet high with multiple cracks and over 50 routes. It’s ideal for rock climbing beginners as well as experienced climbers, serving as both training grounds for leaders and climbers alike.
Climbers flock to this wall year-round, though on sunny days it can get busy with after work crowds. The rock consists primarily of traditional and top rope routes that average 47 feet in length with many bolted anchors at the top.
At this crag, there are over 10 top-rope routes that are beginner friendly. Many of these routes can be found along Indian Seats Trail which leads to a summit with an idyllic north-facing view.
Some of the most iconic routes on the wall include Chisel (V8) and Marietta Mangler (V10). The first route is a classic triangular face that’s highly challenging to climb, while the second one offers more straightforward top-rope climbing with small crimps and pockets.
To make the most of your experience at this climbing area, it is essential to observe Leave No Trace etiquette. This includes practicing safe climbing techniques, using appropriate gear and keeping trash out of the area.
You can help keep the area clean by carrying a wire brush to remove chalk from tiny holes in the rock and being aware of other people using the trails. Be careful not to kick rocks off the trails as this could pose an unsafe hazard for hikers and bikers alike.
